L'ORMARINS BRUT CLASSIQUE NV

Pale salmon hue, with generous bouquet of lime cordial, oyster shell, fresh sea breeze and apple. Tang of crunchy, crisp green apple and raspberry, vivacious and bright, are immediately apparent on the palate. Lively fizz and energy of the mousse lends additional appeal. Lime marmalade and citrus zest appear before a fantail of toasty brioche, sourdough and creamy lees unfurls. Poised, focused, dry and cohesive to the end.

Lemon and grapefruit zest aromas with a dusty flint edge. Those same flavours immediately announce themselves on the palate, bright, tangy and vivacious. The interplay of fruit and zingy acid is beautifully harmonious and well judged. Underpinning it all is a structured, subtle lees depth which lends both body and length to the succulent mouthful.

A gentle florality adds to the more prominent stonefruit and light touch of honey on the nose. The mouth delivers a veritable fruit salad: flavours of melon, nectarine, quince and apricot intermingle seamlessly. Delightful succulence and freshness from appropriate acidity but there is a broad, creamy lees undertone that adds texture and breadth to the tasty mouthful. Good composure and structure only add to the enjoyment, as does a delicate citrus pith nuance which is apparent on the long, lingering aftertaste.

Florality is the first observation, both elderflower and orange blossom – but then a subtle coconut biscuit nuance becomes apparent on the nose. The palate is vibrant and tangibly crisp courtesy of its youth. Taut, focused, and vital with zesty citrus and even lemon pepper flavour. Its perkiness is not without form: the wine has good body and frame with an understated lees element lending it breadth and texture. Refreshing, bright and characterful, it drinks well now and will also reward patience.